Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 vs Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm

In-Depth Comparison

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 and the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm represent two compelling options in the luxury watch market. Both timepieces have earned devoted followings among collectors and enthusiasts, but they approach horology from distinctly different perspectives. Let's break down how these two watches compare across the key dimensions that matter most to buyers.

Heritage And Brand Prestige

Nomos and Oris are both highly respected names in watchmaking. The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 comes from Germany, while the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm originates from Switzerland. This particular Orion reference was introduced in 2015, while this Aquis reference debuted in 2022. The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm is the newer release, potentially featuring more modern technology and finishing.

Movement And Mechanics

At the heart of the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 beats the Nomos DUW 3001 caliber offering a 43-hour power reserve running at 21,600 vph with 27 jewels. The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm is powered by the Oris 400 with a 120-hour power reserve operating at 28,800 vph featuring 30 jewels. The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm wins on power reserve with a 77-hour advantage, which means less frequent winding for those who rotate watches.

Dimensions And Wearability

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 features a 36.0mm case at 8.1mm thick with a 45.5mm lug-to-lug measurement, crafted in Stainless Steel. The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm comes in at 43.5mm and 14.0mm thick with 50.0mm lug-to-lug, constructed from Stainless Steel. The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 wears more compactly on the wrist, making it potentially more suitable for smaller wrists or those who prefer understated proportions. At 42g, the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 is the lighter of the two.

Materials And Construction

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 uses a Sapphire crystal crystal paired with a Fixed polished bezel, while the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm features Sapphire crystal with a Rotating Ceramic bezel. On the wrist, the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 comes on a Horween genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap with Pin buckle, while the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm is fitted with Stainless Steel bracelet featuring Fold-over.

Water Resistance And Capability

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 is rated to 30m / 98ft and the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm to 300m / 984ft. For water sports and diving, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm provides superior depth capability.

Pricing And Value

At retail, the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 lists for $3,200 compared to $3,200 for the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm. On the secondary market, the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 trades around $2,750 while the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm commands approximately $2,700.

The Verdict

Choosing between the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 and the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm ultimately comes down to personal priorities. For diving and water sports, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Blue 43.5mm is the stronger choice. for dress occasions and smaller wrists, the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 is more versatile. Both watches are exceptional timepieces that will serve their owner well for generations. We recommend trying both on the wrist at an authorized dealer before making your final decision, as comfort and emotional connection are ultimately just as important as specifications.