Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 vs Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390

In-Depth Comparison

The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 and the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 represent two compelling options in the luxury watch market. Both timepieces have earned devoted followings among collectors and enthusiasts, but they approach horology from distinctly different perspectives. Let's break down how these two watches compare across the key dimensions that matter most to buyers.

Heritage And Brand Prestige

Grand Seiko and Nomos are both highly respected names in watchmaking. The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 comes from Japan, while the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 originates from Germany. This particular Heritage reference was introduced in 2017, while this Orion reference debuted in 2015. The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 is the newer release, potentially featuring more modern technology and finishing.

Movement And Mechanics

At the heart of the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 beats the Grand Seiko 9S64 caliber offering a 72-hour power reserve running at 28,800 vph with 24 jewels. The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 is powered by the Nomos DUW 3001 with a 43-hour power reserve operating at 21,600 vph featuring 27 jewels. The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 wins on power reserve with a 29-hour advantage, which means less frequent winding for those who rotate watches.

Dimensions And Wearability

The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 features a 37.3mm case at 11.6mm thick with a 44.5mm lug-to-lug measurement, crafted in Stainless Steel. The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 comes in at 36.0mm and 8.1mm thick with 45.5mm lug-to-lug, constructed from Stainless Steel. The Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 wears more compactly on the wrist, making it potentially more suitable for smaller wrists or those who prefer understated proportions. At 42g, the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 is the lighter of the two.

Materials And Construction

The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 uses a Sapphire with anti-reflective coating crystal paired with a Fixed polished bezel, while the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 features Sapphire crystal crystal with a Fixed polished bezel. On the wrist, the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 comes on a Leather strap with crocodile pattern with Buckle, while the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 is fitted with Horween genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap featuring Pin buckle.

Water Resistance And Capability

The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 is rated to 30m / 98ft and the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 to 30m / 98ft. Both watches share the same water resistance rating, making them equally suited for aquatic activities.

Pricing And Value

At retail, the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 lists for $4,200 compared to $3,200 for the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390. On the secondary market, the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 trades around $3,800 while the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 commands approximately $2,750.

The Verdict

Choosing between the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW231 and the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 ultimately comes down to personal priorities. For dress occasions and smaller wrists, the Nomos Orion Neomatik 36 Ref. 390 is more versatile. Both watches are exceptional timepieces that will serve their owner well for generations. We recommend trying both on the wrist at an authorized dealer before making your final decision, as comfort and emotional connection are ultimately just as important as specifications.