Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 vs Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085

In-Depth Comparison

The Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 and the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 represent two compelling options in the luxury watch market. Both timepieces have earned devoted followings among collectors and enthusiasts, but they approach horology from distinctly different perspectives. Let's break down how these two watches compare across the key dimensions that matter most to buyers.

Heritage And Brand Prestige

Nomos and Seiko are both highly respected names in watchmaking. The Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 comes from Germany, while the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 originates from Japan. This particular Tangente reference was introduced in 2006, while this Presage reference debuted in 2018. The Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 is the newer release, potentially featuring more modern technology and finishing.

Movement And Mechanics

At the heart of the Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 beats the Nomos Alpha caliber offering a 43-hour power reserve running at 21,600 vph with 17 jewels. The Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 is powered by the Seiko 6R21 with a 45-hour power reserve operating at 21,600 vph featuring 24 jewels. The Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 wins on power reserve with a 2-hour advantage, which means less frequent winding for those who rotate watches.

Dimensions And Wearability

The Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 features a 37.5mm case at 7.0mm thick with a 47.0mm lug-to-lug measurement, crafted in Stainless Steel. The Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 comes in at 40.5mm and 12.8mm thick with 47.6mm lug-to-lug, constructed from Stainless Steel. The Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 wears more compactly on the wrist, making it potentially more suitable for smaller wrists or those who prefer understated proportions. At 42g, the Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 is the lighter of the two.

Materials And Construction

The Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 uses a Sapphire crystal crystal paired with a Fixed polished bezel, while the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 features Sapphire with anti-reflective coating crystal with a Fixed polished bezel. On the wrist, the Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 comes on a Horween genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap with Pin buckle, while the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 is fitted with Leather strap with crocodile pattern featuring Three-fold clasp.

Water Resistance And Capability

The Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 is rated to 30m / 98ft and the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 to 100m / 328ft. For water sports and diving, the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 provides superior depth capability.

Pricing And Value

At retail, the Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 lists for $2,080 compared to $2,500 for the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085. On the secondary market, the Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 trades around $1,750 while the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 commands approximately $2,200.

The Verdict

Choosing between the Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 and the Seiko Presage Urushi Lacquer SPB085 ultimately comes down to personal priorities. For dress occasions and smaller wrists, the Nomos Tangente 38 Date Ref. 170 is more versatile. Both watches are exceptional timepieces that will serve their owner well for generations. We recommend trying both on the wrist at an authorized dealer before making your final decision, as comfort and emotional connection are ultimately just as important as specifications.